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Author Topic: SRC RPK  (Read 8055 times)
ghost
Eidolon
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on: January 28, 2007, 09:20:58 pm



After my first experience with SRC I must admit I was a little aprehensive about this purchase.  I'm much more pleased with the RPK than I was with the Krinkov.  I don't anticipate selling this replica.

Out of the box:

First off, SRC did a much better job of packaging and packaging presentation of the RPK than they did with the Krinkov.  Where the Krinkov was packed in a plastic toy gun tray in an unassuming cardboard box, the RPK came in a very nice, gloss-black box with actual pictures of the gun and is packed between a layer of egg carton style foam.

Unfortunately a few things were loose on the gun upon arrival. 

When I first picked up the gun the stock wobbled, resulting in a disappointed sigh.  But then I tried tightening the three screws and the stock was then rock solid.  The 4 screws on the outter barrel were also loose, which meant the barrel assembly would rotate slightly to either side.  Tightening the screws up remedied the problem.  However, after 30 minutes of game time on 2-27-07 I noticed the screw on the bipod was loose.  I re-tightened it and about an hour later it was loose again.  Stripped.  It of course wouldn't re-tighten.

The bipod, by design, does not achieve a 100% positive lock when deployed.  So the gun will wobble/rotate a little bit either way when using the bipod.  I've never handled a real RPK, but I bet the real steel is the same.  Because of this rotation, it caused the ring of the bipod to want to rotate as well, which meant the screw loosened (even with blue lock-tite) and stripped itself.  This also caused the screw on the front sight assembly to loosen as well.

I very highly recommend you go out and buy yourself some better screws to replace the ones installed with the gun upon arrival.  I picked up some #6x3/8" metal screws which I had to cut short with some bolt cutters and paint them black.  These screws are a bit wider than the OEM ones and the pitch of the threads is a little bit wider, too.  So they have more bite.  We'll see how they hold up.

There are also a few mods you may feel are necessary to obtain maximum sturdiness.  I'm a freak about that sort of thing, so I've done these mods:

-The octagonal piece of the gas block that the gas tube slots onto has a little bit of play in it.  I wrapped the octagonal part with a bit of electrical tape.

-The bipod ring also has a little bit of room between it and the outer barrel.  Electrical tape.

-Same thing with the front sight assembly.

None of these mods are visible.  The gas block mod especially does wonders for stability.  Previously the upper handguard and gas tube had a tendancy to wobble.

Originally I was planning on swapping the stock furniture with AK-47 style furniture to give it a Yugoslavian RPK look, but after using the gun I like the RPK furniture better.  I've got other projects in mind that I can use '47 furniture for. 

While the stock furniture feels very much like plastic, it looks pretty darned good.  At the recent ASL game I had someone ask if it was real wood.  However, the lower handguard doesn't quite match up.  Under scrutiny it almost has a slightly "transparent" look to it.  From my experience working with injection molded plastic parts, I'm pretty confident why it looks like this.  The mold running this part most likely has a color-feeder attached to it.  What this does is supplement the bulk of the material used in manufacturing the handguard with an alternate color of pellet to achieve the correct shade and to eliminate transparency.  It appears what happened is the color-feeder ran out of pellets, producing a part that was a little too light, but not transparent enough for QA to reject it outright.  I don't know if all of SRC's RPKs look like this, but if you don't work with plastics it's not really noticeable.

Another thing is that the "battery tray" that sits above the gearbox, which also holds the charging handle, appears to have been installed incorrectly from the factory or got jostled out of place in shipping.  This resulted in the charging handle not being able to close all the way...which also meant pushing in the detent button far enough to remove the dust cover was almost impossible.  Fortunately my expereince with the difficulty of removing SRC's Krinkov dust cover saved me a huge amount of frustration and headache.  Once the battery tray is installed correctly getting the dust cover off and on is a whole lot easier, though still not an arbitrary task.  I'm not sure if TMs are like this, but I'm willing to bet not.  Fortunately the RPK uses the stock for battery placement (it can hold an 8.4v large type with only a little jostling of wires), so there's no need to ever remove the dust cover except to remove the gearbox.  The Krinkov had it's battery compartment under the dust cover; something I hated.

Back to the bipod.

While it's cool for display purposes, the bipod isn't really practical for airsoft.  I'm the run and gun sort, so stowing and deploying the bipod is more work than it's worth.  Moving with the bipod deployed causes it to get in the way and get caught on stuff.  And it's not like unlatching/latching the bipod is an easy task.  By intentional design, it takes a good bit of effort to flip the retainer off.  And that's a good thing.  If you could just accidentally pop the retainer off of the spring loaded bipod...bad things could happen.  You might get hit in the naughty bits, or in the face if you're holding the gun up.

Since it wouldn't look right to just remove the bipod, I've kept it on, but have electrical taped it to the barrel below the gas tube.  This accomplishes a few things:

1)  It keeps the bipod from rattling
2)  It prevents anyone else from using the bipod easily and possibly "re-damaging" the bipod's screw
3)  It prevents to bipod legs from moving and possibly "re-damaging" the bipod's screw

If you replace the OEM screws with better ones, this might not be a recurring issue.  But if you plan on using the bipod extensively, it might be a good idea to look into a clamp-on bipod or some such; something that doesn't need a screw.

SRC makes craptacular high-caps.  At least for their AKs, anyway.  The one that came with the Krinkov decided to disassemble itself after loaning it and the gun to another player at a game a while back--I knew the mag was low quality, so I fully believe it was the mag's fault and not the person.  The mag that came with the RPK also has the same "Oh my god!  I'm about to fall apart!" construction.  To make matters worse, if I wind the mag until it starts clicking the spring inside seems to move out of place or something.  It stops feeding BBs even though fully wound.  The only way to correct this is to drop the mag or hit it hard on something, at which point the spring will completely unwind so you can then rewind it and have it function again. 

If you don't get a drum mag for the RPK, I implore you to buy a TM '47 style high-cap.  Fortunately I was able to use my mid-caps (which initially caused double feeding, but actually performed admirably on the 27th), but if you don't have back-up AK mags and don't get a good high-cap along with the gun don't expect the included one to work well or remain intact for more than 2 5+ hour games.  AK-74 style mags will of course not work in the '47 style receiver; they won't lock in place without modification.  I love that my '47 mid-caps are forwards compatible.

The finish of the gun, while not as nice as my ICS AK-74, is still of good quality.  Though it does have the want of taking on battle personality in a short amount of time.  But this is a '47 style RPK as opposed to the '74 style, so it's supposed to be/look older and well used.

I love that SRC makes largely metal guns priced competitively with Tokyo Marui.  So much metal that I'm not going to list what is metal.  I'll tell you what's plastic.

-The furniture
-The "battery tray" above the gearbox which also holds the charging handle
-The usual gearbox parts.  The shell is metal with metal bushings.

Stock performance:

Stock FPS I'm going to guestimate from my PMC results as 260-279.  Some BBs will penetrate one side of a coke can, most won't.

I never tested stock range.  Sorry.

The gun's not terribly accurate, but it's a support weapon; that's not the point.  You don't want to lay down cover fire and have every shot dead on.  The gun has a variation of one to two feet at range with the stock inner barrel.

Upgrading the gun:

-HurricanE cylinder head
-Systema piston head w/ bearings
-Area 1000 poly-carb piston
-Systema M100
-Systema spring guide w/ bearings
-Classic Army high torque motor

With these items installed the gun chronod at Asylum at 267-286.  ASL admits the chrono at Asylum can't be trusted (don't worry, they pull out a "real" chrono for events).

I then swapped in a Guarder SP110.  310 FPS, not a huge variation like before.  The sun was out at this time and some chronos just don't work well (or at all) without ample light.  PMC results put it at 330+ FPS

I'd like the gun to be in the 350-370 range, and I have an M120 on the way.  That might lower my ROF a decent amount, but that's cool with me.  If I can get my desired range and my 8.4v can handle it I'll be running the 120.  I've also got an aluminum piston I can swap in if I feel it needs it.

Judging by what my ICS will do to a can at close to 400fps and what the SRC is now doing, I'd put PMC results with an M120 at 380fps.

Range is good.  I'd say at least 120 feet, but I'm terrible at judging distances.

Closing comments:

Much better experience than with the Krinkov.  A few things need shoreing up or replacing (the screws), but I'm quite happy with the gun.

If you don't want to spend a "stupid amount of money" on a kit to convert a $250 TM AK into an RPK, or just can't wait for CA to release theirs, then this is the RPK for you.

Just get a drum mag or a good quality high-cap...or both.  If you don't have mid-caps to fall back on and your drum goes down, you'll hate when the included high-cap poops out on you.
Last Edit: February 01, 2007, 03:53:37 am by ghost Logged

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ghost
Eidolon
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Reply #1 on: January 31, 2007, 04:24:32 am

Looks like I'll be picking up some more mid-caps and running those.  The Star drum that just arrived will not lock into the mag well of my SRC, but will on my ICS.  ... 

And for this price, I'm not about to mod it to fit.
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D.Basty
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Reply #2 on: October 08, 2009, 02:29:32 pm

with your skills I think the rearwing should be easily fixed. just rebuild it from metal. but I think the kit is way to "chunky". it will only go as a curbside.

I would wait for a Tameo release  the thickness of the sidepods and rear diffusor alone are causing to much work.

good luck with that kit

daniel
-germany-
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MunkyMo
Eidolon
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Reply #3 on: January 05, 2010, 10:46:57 pm

with your skills I think the rearwing should be easily fixed. just rebuild it from metal. but I think the kit is way to "chunky". it will only go as a curbside.

I would wait for a Tameo release  the thickness of the sidepods and rear diffusor alone are causing to much work.

good luck with that kit

daniel
-germany-


God I hate necro posting nigger jew cunts.
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MTNMAN
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Reply #4 on: January 06, 2010, 03:38:18 am

Munky my Brother,  I could not agree more.
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